It was long overdue but when it came it was worth the entire wait! The return of the prodigal to the lands of forefathers was a thrilling experience and worthy of remembrance for life. The approach to our village is dotted with unbelievable treasure of flora and fauna and the green made me envy the landscape. The orange robes of the devotees across Rajgir and the green cover of the forests presented a breathtaking spectacle and Meeta couldn’t but sigh in admiration. We could nt believe the quality of roads in Bihar and it seemed that the people have woken up from their long slumber and are determined to surpass other states in terms of development. 15 years ago when I came here, the land symbolized darkness even though the landscape was as beautiful as it is today. Today the same place evoked a strong sense of hope and determination to overcome the past to build a beautiful future which has no place for fear! Soon, we left the swanky highway to a lane made of bricks and rubble leading to our village and a timely reminder that we have a long way to go in Bihar. “But atleast there is a road,” said Chachaji.
Just how much contrast you can experience in few minutes!!
A rollercoaster and bumpy ride brought us to Sihin, our ancestral village. The approach to the village summed up the current mood in the states as we witnessed barren land with no sowing of the paddy fields. Bihar is in midst of a severe draught because the monsoons have failed to satiate the thirst of its parched land. For a state which has just begun to crawl back to life and freedom, the draught could spell disaster. However, the current state government has done a remarkable job in restoring the faith of people in governance and deserves to come back again and the people would do well to keep out the “thugs of Bihar” who looted and murdered its conscience for over two decades.
Back to Sihin, it is located close to five kilometers from the ancient ruins of the magnificent Nalanda University, a UNESCO Heritage site. I am sure the ancient scholars of the University would have graced the meadows of my beautiful village. It presents a picture postcard image of a quintessential Indian village and my adrenalin was pumping with anticipation at its mere sight from a distance. Just across the verandah of our Kothi, is the dry river bed of River Tilaiya usually swollen with water at this time of the year but also no rains as yet!
Standing in the verandah with Meeta looking at the river brought back memories of the village and the time my father spent here as a kid. The magnificent Kothi, a source of great pride to our ancestors, wore a desolate look badly in need of repairs just as its old friend the river Tilaiya was in need of water. My grandmother anecdotes came flashing back about the four huge courtyards in the Kothi. Each courtyard had a different function; the first one was a bawarchi khana, the second one for bathing aka Sauna, the third one for storing the grains, and the fourth one used for growing fruits and vegetables for supplies to the kitchen. WOW! And that was not the end, there was a fifth one for the horses, cows, and would you believe it for Elephants. My great grandfather Shri. Raj Kishore Narayan rode an elephant to marry my great grand mother!! 100 years back this place must be abuzz with life.
Looking at it today, it is hard to believe that the place was once abuzz with life and laughter echoed in its fore walls. My father spent the first few years after he was born here before my grandfather moved to Ranchi, my birthplace. The courtyards wore a desolate look and for a moment I could not help but sympathize with its sadness and loneliness. Meeta, chachaji, and chachiji were with me standing there trying to find some life amidst the ruins but in vain.
Just across the first courtyard is the home of our kul devi, goddess Kali. She is our supreme deity and protects all the Narayans from evil forces and bestows bounties on us. Everybody in our lineage has tremendous respect and devotion to the deity and every year during dussehra, the Narayans are supposed to come here and perform a special puja. My father used to narrate stories to my elder brother about the esoteric nature of the puja performed only after midnight and with very strict regulations on participation in the puja as only the members of our clan could attend it. There were stories about a person not belonging to our clan and who was not supposed to be present during the puja dying just a few days later. I don’t know whether that really happened but is just goes to show the very private and secret nature of the rituals. All of us bowed our heads infront of the goddess in reverence and invoked her blessings for a good present and future full of life and happiness. We could feel a sense of strength and calm in her magical presence!
Although the caretaker of the Kothi and our properties is an old man but has a very strong and alert voice at his command. He knows all of us well and shows respect & admiration for the good work our forefathers did for the village. He had ordered a simple meal of daal, chawal, aaloo bhujiya (Fried potato wedges), and chicken curry for us. We gorged on the food and were amazed how much we ate because it was simple and not laced with oil and spices! We were given a royal treatment and slowly but surely the true significance of our lineage began to sink in. This must have been the daily routine with our forefathers however, for all of us, the city breds, this is only stuff made of legends in the movies or in history and I am talking not too far back in history, merely 200 to 250 years old.
Next on the agenda was the visit to the fields and other kothis of my great great grandfather’s four brothers. All the five kothis was lined up adjacent to each other. We are in the middle of the lot. The villagers waved us in acknowledgement and I could hear them whispering at our back, “brij babu ka pota aur putohu aayen hai” (My grandfather’s name was Brij Kishore Narayan and putohu stands for wife of the grandson). Soon after enjoying the splendor and beauty of the village, the time to leave for Patna had arrived. We wanted to stay back but the Kothi was not ready to accommodate us as it was not in shape but took a promise from us to get it repaired so that next time we can spend a few days basking in the glory of the river Tilaiya, its courtyards, and sprawling fields in the village. As we began to move, the villagers and people attached to our families for generations showered us with good bye’s galore “pranam malik and malkin.” The children jostled with each other to catch a glimpse of Meeta, the bahu of the khaandan. Chacha and chachi were surrounded by the faithfuls of generations. The feudal system is still alive and kicking in some of its trappings much to my disgust but Rabindranath Tagore said once, “our villages have ceased to change for ages” and to expect them to change in 60 years of self rule is ridiculous to say the least. As we left the kutcha road leading out of the village on to the swanky brand new highways of Bihar, I felt goose bumps across my body and soul. Modern Bihar has made a promising beginning after years of misrule of darkness and the indicators of progress, the roads, revamped primary health centers, encouragement of the girl child education, improved law & order gives me hope that the will to do something provides a way in the most hopeless situation as Bihar found itself in for the last 20 years. We all agreed to the conclusion as the Narayans should when they have just visited a common ancient heritage and are bound with it by love and affection!
Good bye Sihin and thanks for reminding us of our heritage!
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Adieu Emerald Isles
The sojourn is coming to an end and I write this with mixed emotions. The joy of going back home overwhelms all other emotions and is the greatest exhilaration one can experience. The stay here has been memorable and will be part of my life. It is often said, traveling is the greatest education and it is well said and profound. From the sandy beaches of Bentota to the stratospheric tranquility of the famous Sri Dalada Maligawa Buddhist temple at Kandy; from the salubrious climes of Kandy to the green heat of Dambulla, this truly has been the most memorable trip I have undertaken. The gongs at the Buddhist temple still rings in my ears and with it almost a buddhasque calmness engulfs me and transports me to his first sermon after enlightenment. This is the land of the Avaloketishwara, the great and our own Buddha who has tragically vanished from the landscape of India. Could there be a greater irony? The man born to be king of India is consigned to the pages of history book and in the neighborhood is revered as the greatest almighty. Nobody in our country except the historians lament this Shakespearean tragedy.
I also witnessed first hand the great circus the “IIFA “awards in Colombo, the glitz and ratmatazz that Bollywood can generate is amazing and can be appreciated only if you witness it as an Indian away from your homeland. Sri Lankans are crazy about the Hindi movies and the stars here enjoy unparalleled adulation and admiration. Perhaps they don’t understand Hindi well!! The whole city had come to a standstill and it was to be seen to be believed and a little bewildering as to why? I felt good as an Indian to see our movies and stars being loved so much in a different land. India has always been the fountainhead of culture in the subcontinent and therefore, it is no surprise to see its culture being so dominant in the whole of South Asia. But amazingly we are the most misunderstood people too as most Sri Lankans attribute all their current troubles to India’s hegemonistic designs in propping up the Tamil cause leading to LTTE causing mayhem in the entire island. India right from the days of Chanakya propagated cultural conquest of its neighbors and till date it maintains the same strategy.
However, this write up is all about me and not India and its neighbors. I will shortly leave this beautiful country and jet up north across the Palk Strait, the Deccan plateau, and the Gangetic plain to be at home. The trip has been full of fun for me and will always be cherished. This piece would be incomplete without the special mention of my gracious and wonderful hosts who have been most kind in making my stay enjoyable and fun-filled.
I eagerly await my next assignment which will take me to a new land, whose time has come to flourish and grow.
Sayonara Sri Lanka and Thank you for your hospitality
I also witnessed first hand the great circus the “IIFA “awards in Colombo, the glitz and ratmatazz that Bollywood can generate is amazing and can be appreciated only if you witness it as an Indian away from your homeland. Sri Lankans are crazy about the Hindi movies and the stars here enjoy unparalleled adulation and admiration. Perhaps they don’t understand Hindi well!! The whole city had come to a standstill and it was to be seen to be believed and a little bewildering as to why? I felt good as an Indian to see our movies and stars being loved so much in a different land. India has always been the fountainhead of culture in the subcontinent and therefore, it is no surprise to see its culture being so dominant in the whole of South Asia. But amazingly we are the most misunderstood people too as most Sri Lankans attribute all their current troubles to India’s hegemonistic designs in propping up the Tamil cause leading to LTTE causing mayhem in the entire island. India right from the days of Chanakya propagated cultural conquest of its neighbors and till date it maintains the same strategy.
However, this write up is all about me and not India and its neighbors. I will shortly leave this beautiful country and jet up north across the Palk Strait, the Deccan plateau, and the Gangetic plain to be at home. The trip has been full of fun for me and will always be cherished. This piece would be incomplete without the special mention of my gracious and wonderful hosts who have been most kind in making my stay enjoyable and fun-filled.
I eagerly await my next assignment which will take me to a new land, whose time has come to flourish and grow.
Sayonara Sri Lanka and Thank you for your hospitality
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Time to Ponder - T20 Rout and its Inferences
The T20 debacle in the West Indies has raised a huge furore in India. I wonder what the fuss is all about. Did we really believe that this current Indian team would scale the summit in the West Indies. Are we really so naive? I don’t think that this is an unexpected or a shocking result. It was always on the card but we refused to heed the warning signals present since the last two years. After the marvellous victory in the inaugural edition of the latest fad in Cricket, we thought that Indian cricket has turned a corner and this was the beginning of a golden era as soon we were also crowned as numero uno in Test cricket. However, at the same time, a fundamental shift occurred in the thinking process of current generation of Indian cricketers because of the sudden advent of the ratmatazz of IPL and the bounties it showered on the professional cricketers. The loss at the international events didn’t pain our cricketers anymore and the work ethics became corporatized with players doling out explanations such as cricket is a job and you will have some bad and some good days! The average Indian fan was hoodwinked by this spin (Googly!) given by the smart current generation of Indian cricketers into thinking that it doesn’t not matter for India to lose as long as the IPL wins. The basic tenets of game went into an abyss of spurious money and instant fame which made modestly talented cricketers such as Rohit Sharma, Yuvraj Singh, Ravindra Jadeja, Suresh Raina, Harbhajan etc into huge saleable commodities (overvalued stock commodity).
The common factor amongst all these cricketers is their abject failure at the Test level, the ultimate form of the game. Barring perhaps Harbhajan who has had a chequered history with disciplinary issues and a few sporadic match winning performances, all other current generation products have struggled at the test level. Yuvraj who has spent close to a decade at the international level but is yet to find a regular spot in the Indian test line up is a classic example of a failure to put in the hard yards to be successful at the highest level. Why? Its not that Yuvraj doesn’t have the talent, but because the returns for putting in the extra effort is not worth it. Yuvraj is symptomatic of this malaise that afflicts the Indian sports in general. Lack of world class sportsman who is revered as global champions aka Roger Federar, Football stars such as Ronaldo etc. As an ardent fan of the game of cricket and sport in general, I am heartbroken to see India surrender so meekly at the global events on a regular basis such as the hockey world cup, tennis grand slams, and football . As they say, one swallow doesn’t make a summer, the victory at the 2007 T20 world cup was a false dawn which sowed the seeds of the current crop of pathetic performers who dont believe in taking pride in representing their nation, who think losing is part of the game and value IPL contracts over India cap. The silver lining in the current storm is India's status as the top dog in Test cricket but the end is nigh even in this arena with the impending retirement of stars such as Rahul Dravid, Tendulkar, and Laxman who belonged to a generation who valued their India cap more than anything else. Recently, Dravid so aptly summed up the psyche of the current India caps " Rainas and Sharmas don’t have the hunger to play test cricket". He could not have put it more aptly and the disappointment is that these cricketers are not excelling even in their chosen format the slam bang version leave alone the test version. All will be forgotten as soon as the team will win a few meaningless ODIs in their own backyard and a few cheap victories in one of these farcical tri nation series held in a faraway Harare or a Dambulla. Here are a few questions for my fellow countrymen who should reflect and ponder and find answers for the same.
Can we produce Indian teams which are world class in the true sense who will win a test series in Australia or South Africa?
Can we dream to see an Indian squad donning the tricolor jersey in a FIFA world cup final?
Can we create Indian companies which will SHINE like a global brand such as Sony, Airbus, and Microsoft?
Can we manufacture standards of operational excellence as revered as Six Sigma?
Can my beloved nation ever be able to provide elementary education, health facilities, electricity, Law and order to thousands of villages and towns?
Suddenly, you will find answers to all the questions troubling you. All your doubts and agony will wither away and hopefully awaken you from your deep slumber!
JAI HIND
The common factor amongst all these cricketers is their abject failure at the Test level, the ultimate form of the game. Barring perhaps Harbhajan who has had a chequered history with disciplinary issues and a few sporadic match winning performances, all other current generation products have struggled at the test level. Yuvraj who has spent close to a decade at the international level but is yet to find a regular spot in the Indian test line up is a classic example of a failure to put in the hard yards to be successful at the highest level. Why? Its not that Yuvraj doesn’t have the talent, but because the returns for putting in the extra effort is not worth it. Yuvraj is symptomatic of this malaise that afflicts the Indian sports in general. Lack of world class sportsman who is revered as global champions aka Roger Federar, Football stars such as Ronaldo etc. As an ardent fan of the game of cricket and sport in general, I am heartbroken to see India surrender so meekly at the global events on a regular basis such as the hockey world cup, tennis grand slams, and football . As they say, one swallow doesn’t make a summer, the victory at the 2007 T20 world cup was a false dawn which sowed the seeds of the current crop of pathetic performers who dont believe in taking pride in representing their nation, who think losing is part of the game and value IPL contracts over India cap. The silver lining in the current storm is India's status as the top dog in Test cricket but the end is nigh even in this arena with the impending retirement of stars such as Rahul Dravid, Tendulkar, and Laxman who belonged to a generation who valued their India cap more than anything else. Recently, Dravid so aptly summed up the psyche of the current India caps " Rainas and Sharmas don’t have the hunger to play test cricket". He could not have put it more aptly and the disappointment is that these cricketers are not excelling even in their chosen format the slam bang version leave alone the test version. All will be forgotten as soon as the team will win a few meaningless ODIs in their own backyard and a few cheap victories in one of these farcical tri nation series held in a faraway Harare or a Dambulla. Here are a few questions for my fellow countrymen who should reflect and ponder and find answers for the same.
Can we produce Indian teams which are world class in the true sense who will win a test series in Australia or South Africa?
Can we dream to see an Indian squad donning the tricolor jersey in a FIFA world cup final?
Can we create Indian companies which will SHINE like a global brand such as Sony, Airbus, and Microsoft?
Can we manufacture standards of operational excellence as revered as Six Sigma?
Can my beloved nation ever be able to provide elementary education, health facilities, electricity, Law and order to thousands of villages and towns?
Suddenly, you will find answers to all the questions troubling you. All your doubts and agony will wither away and hopefully awaken you from your deep slumber!
JAI HIND
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Whiff of Nostalgia!
Two weeks in a faraway land and you start missing home, the food and its aroma’s, the surroundings and basically everything including the potholes, the toxic air! Why does it happen always? What’s the reason? Emotional fools! Sentimental buggers! These are some of the oft heard clichés that we come across when you whine about missing home. I totally disagree with this criticism and I can personally vouch for that as I have travelled a fair bit. The reason is primordial moorings of a human being attached to the environ where they grow up. Neither a penny less nor a pound more.
Before this blog turns into a forum for discussing anthropology and sociology and mankind’s moorings, let me return to the original intent – blogging my experiences in a foreign land. Well, the initial euphoria has given way to a subdued enthusiasm. From the high of jet skiing at Bentota to the longing for an Indian curry, I have seen it all in the past few weeks. Strangely enough, I have been unable to sleep for long hours with frequent breaks possibly because of change in weather and location.
The roads here are full of reconditioned Japanese vehicles and to acquire one people here pay a fortune. Our own Maruti Suzuki is extremely popular here particularly the ‘ALTO’. Indians command a fair degree of respect and admiration for the way India has progressed in the recent decade. Nobody thinks am an Indian and everybody speaks to me in Singhalese. Why? Well you have guessed it right!! Coming back to the lifestyle of the populace, apart from swanky Japo cars and a few smattering of Indian ones, Colombo has several sea side restaurants teeming with people, offering tremendous varieties of sea food and is a heaven for the foodies especially the fish lovers. You name it in and you have lobsters, crabs, Cuttle, Prawns and what not in your plate. A year back, you would not have imagined moving here esp. after dark when the war with the Tamil rebels was at its peak. The battle weary Sri Lankans have braved the war with courage and tenacity and are now enjoying the fruits of that long struggle with a spell of peace and stability. No wonder, they are out and partying. However, the police barricades and security posts are a stark reminder of the cost at which which peace comes. Wish we in India could also solve our domestic problems soon so that the entire population can enjoy the fruits of peace and stability.
This piece would be incomplete without a special word of appreciation for my wonderful and graceful hosts and it would be no exaggeration to suggest that it would be hard to find a more humble group of people anywhere else in the world. Sri Lanka is a wonderful country, fledgling but pregnant with possibilities of growth and prosperity. May god help them to achieve their rightful place under the sun!
Before this blog turns into a forum for discussing anthropology and sociology and mankind’s moorings, let me return to the original intent – blogging my experiences in a foreign land. Well, the initial euphoria has given way to a subdued enthusiasm. From the high of jet skiing at Bentota to the longing for an Indian curry, I have seen it all in the past few weeks. Strangely enough, I have been unable to sleep for long hours with frequent breaks possibly because of change in weather and location.
The roads here are full of reconditioned Japanese vehicles and to acquire one people here pay a fortune. Our own Maruti Suzuki is extremely popular here particularly the ‘ALTO’. Indians command a fair degree of respect and admiration for the way India has progressed in the recent decade. Nobody thinks am an Indian and everybody speaks to me in Singhalese. Why? Well you have guessed it right!! Coming back to the lifestyle of the populace, apart from swanky Japo cars and a few smattering of Indian ones, Colombo has several sea side restaurants teeming with people, offering tremendous varieties of sea food and is a heaven for the foodies especially the fish lovers. You name it in and you have lobsters, crabs, Cuttle, Prawns and what not in your plate. A year back, you would not have imagined moving here esp. after dark when the war with the Tamil rebels was at its peak. The battle weary Sri Lankans have braved the war with courage and tenacity and are now enjoying the fruits of that long struggle with a spell of peace and stability. No wonder, they are out and partying. However, the police barricades and security posts are a stark reminder of the cost at which which peace comes. Wish we in India could also solve our domestic problems soon so that the entire population can enjoy the fruits of peace and stability.
This piece would be incomplete without a special word of appreciation for my wonderful and graceful hosts and it would be no exaggeration to suggest that it would be hard to find a more humble group of people anywhere else in the world. Sri Lanka is a wonderful country, fledgling but pregnant with possibilities of growth and prosperity. May god help them to achieve their rightful place under the sun!
Monday, May 3, 2010
Across the Palk Strait!
The early morning wake up call was, is, and will always remain a tough proposition. However, my predicament was of my own making as I woke up early thinking I was boarding an international fight and soon realized my folly. Nonetheless, I proceeded towards the Airport in high spirit to be greeted by a bright and beautiful morning sky. Meeta’s presence was comforting and reassuring as we sped towards the airport and reached in no time. It was time to say good bye and exchange hugs & kisses, these are truly poignant moments of life and distinctly uncomfortable to most of us. With heavy heart and moist eyes we bid good bye with a promise to meet soon.
The powerful jet roared and powered us to the skies with unbelievable ease and strength. I wonder at this engineering marvel every time I am airborne and this time it was no different not withstanding that I am a shaky flyer! The flight was designated to be an International type but it turned out to be a domestic ferry till Chennai and the thoughts of enjoying chilled beer melted in the searing heat over much of the northern plains of India. My partner in crime, Mithun, incidentally too is a shaky flyer and admitted to the same when I caught him saying prayers when the jet soared vertically. We could not sleep much as the air hostesses kept distracting us with their sashays (cat walks) down the aisles dazzling us with their beauty and ofcourse the customary Lunch.
Before we could say cheese and doze off, the pilot, a Yankee of Indian origin, crackled on the radio about our impending descent into Chennai. Both of us sighed with relief as the jet touched down and swayed wildly much to our discomfort and came to a grinding halt. We dutifully bid good bye to the lovely staff on board who must be complimented for taking great care to make flying an experience worth remembering.
Chennai International departure terminal is a big disappointment and it is not worthy of a city as eminent as it is. It was already noon when we did the immigration stuff and I had terrible pangs of hunger all this while. I rushed to the food counter and ate whatever I could get hold off. The departure though was a smooth process with everything meticulously handled by the airport staff. As the time came to take up to the skies again, we both waited with nervous anticipation. I gazed around and saw completely new set of people talking in a completely different lingua and felt uncomfortable for a second just like a fish out of water. I would be away from my home for quite a bit and I would be all alone in a different land. Now, this reality started to sink- in. I was for a moment like a baby who doesn’t want to leave her mom’s lap. Realization dawned upon me that I am on a critical assignment and would do well to devoid myself of emotions as they distract one from their mission! Come on Sri Lanka take me!
The jet roared again and took up to the skies with an effortless ease and with it withered away all my anxieties as I moved into an alien airspace away from my homeland. The landing was smooth this time around and we were welcomed at the tarmac by a warm group of people. I felt goose bumps as we briskly walked towards the immigration desk. The clerk at the desk was efficient at his job and he duly stamped the visa with arrived status.
We have arrived in the beautiful country known as the “Emerald Isles”
The powerful jet roared and powered us to the skies with unbelievable ease and strength. I wonder at this engineering marvel every time I am airborne and this time it was no different not withstanding that I am a shaky flyer! The flight was designated to be an International type but it turned out to be a domestic ferry till Chennai and the thoughts of enjoying chilled beer melted in the searing heat over much of the northern plains of India. My partner in crime, Mithun, incidentally too is a shaky flyer and admitted to the same when I caught him saying prayers when the jet soared vertically. We could not sleep much as the air hostesses kept distracting us with their sashays (cat walks) down the aisles dazzling us with their beauty and ofcourse the customary Lunch.
Before we could say cheese and doze off, the pilot, a Yankee of Indian origin, crackled on the radio about our impending descent into Chennai. Both of us sighed with relief as the jet touched down and swayed wildly much to our discomfort and came to a grinding halt. We dutifully bid good bye to the lovely staff on board who must be complimented for taking great care to make flying an experience worth remembering.
Chennai International departure terminal is a big disappointment and it is not worthy of a city as eminent as it is. It was already noon when we did the immigration stuff and I had terrible pangs of hunger all this while. I rushed to the food counter and ate whatever I could get hold off. The departure though was a smooth process with everything meticulously handled by the airport staff. As the time came to take up to the skies again, we both waited with nervous anticipation. I gazed around and saw completely new set of people talking in a completely different lingua and felt uncomfortable for a second just like a fish out of water. I would be away from my home for quite a bit and I would be all alone in a different land. Now, this reality started to sink- in. I was for a moment like a baby who doesn’t want to leave her mom’s lap. Realization dawned upon me that I am on a critical assignment and would do well to devoid myself of emotions as they distract one from their mission! Come on Sri Lanka take me!
The jet roared again and took up to the skies with an effortless ease and with it withered away all my anxieties as I moved into an alien airspace away from my homeland. The landing was smooth this time around and we were welcomed at the tarmac by a warm group of people. I felt goose bumps as we briskly walked towards the immigration desk. The clerk at the desk was efficient at his job and he duly stamped the visa with arrived status.
We have arrived in the beautiful country known as the “Emerald Isles”
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